Alice World Travels

In 2020, I decided to embark on a solo backpacking trip to Sri Lanka. In 2023, I finally went on this trip.

Having travelled a lot with friends, work and occasionally by myself, I couldn’t wait to go solo and do exactly what I wanted to do, when I wanted to do it. I chose Sri Lanka as it felt fairly manageable to visit alone in the short space of time I had, and being an island, there’s only so many places to go. Plus, escaping Europe and being immersed in a new culture was something I was craving.

I went, and I had the time of my life! Here are my top 10 moments.

10: My spontaneous night out in Kandy

The large city of Kandy was one of my first stops in Sri Lanka. I actually visited twice, having changed my route upon speaking to a few locals and travellers alike who told me I was doing it all wrong, and who recommended a different route.

On my second visit there, the evening quickly came and I soon felt restless. I had spent the first few days of my trip not meeting many travellers as it was off-season, it was Saturday night, and I pining to socialise. I met an American girl who told me about Soul Food, a vegetarian restaurant nearby who she had heard others rave about, and so I headed off by myself to see what the fuss was all about. I wasn’t disappointed! The food and ambience were excellent, and although I was alone, to my pleasant surprise, the chef and almost everyone else working there chatted to me.

The next thing I knew, they had invited me out with their friends to Eden of Monkey, a restaurant and club set in a jungle hilltop in Wattegama. Wavering slightly, I decided to trust my gut and just went for it. And it was a blast.

First, we went to Slightly Chilled Lounge and Rooftop Bar for some live music before all squeezing in a tuk tuk or two to dance to techno outside in the warm night air. Being the only westerner there, it felt like an authentic, local experience and it was a night I’ll never forget.

9: The many incredible views

Sri Lanka is lush and green, and in the north close to Sigiriya, I got my first glimpse at just how beautiful the country was. After an afternoon of exploring Ritigala Monastery, an ancient Buddhist monastery dating back to the 1st century BC, we made our way to Enderagala Wana Senasuna Temple in Dambulla. For anyone who has been to Thailand or its neighbouring countries, you know just how easy it is to get ‘templed out’. But this temple was like no other I had seen due to its unique location. The views overlooking Enderagala were spectacular, and we lit incense before sitting on the sloping slabs of rock and gazing across at the immeasurable mass of bushy trees sprawling out below us. It was the first of many incredible views I was to see on my trip.

8: How easy it is to travel around

Yes, even as a solo woman. Having visited nearby India a few years ago and embraced its (somewhat charming) chaos and confusion, I was expecting a similar sort of energy in Sri Lanka. But I couldn’t have been more wrong. The Pearl of the Indian Ocean, as it’s affectionately known as, is extremely calming and simple to travel around. With an expansive train network (thanks to British rule…) and cheap but reliable buses, travelling from place to place is a breeze. Plus, friendly locals are always ready to help you if you look lost! There are some places that are more difficult to get to, such as Arugam Bay on the east coast, but most backpackers are doing a similar route and it’s not hard to get a group together for a shared taxi.

7: Spotting a wild leopard (or five)

Whilst in Arugam Bay, I went on a last minute safari to Kumana National Park, hoping (but really not expecting) to see the elusive leopard. I had heard of some people spotting the spotted big cat, but after being told that most people don’t see them, coupled with my unsuccessful attempt at searching for tigers on safari in Ranthambore National Park in India, I was quite convinced we would be unlucky. But even though our safari drivers looked like they were still in school, they were really excellent, and we were lucky enough to see five leopards! Majestic yet surprisingly smaller than I expected, our first sighting had me on the verge of tears.

6: Hanging out with rescued elephants

I have been passionate about animal rights since I was a child, and continue to be to this day. When researching my trip, I came across a highlight which many people seemed to tick off when in Sri Lanka: visiting an elephant orphanage. However, the more I researched and delved into this activity, the more I noticed that these places are still exploiting the elephants in some way, giving rides to tourists and being chained up. There was just one place that I found nearby to Kandy that seemed to be truly ethical: The Elephant Freedom Project.

Home to two elephants, Kumari and Menike, the Elephant Freedom Project is a small, family-run shelter hoping to make a difference. I visited on a rainy afternoon and was extremely pleased to see that no bull hooks are used and no riding ever occurs, and visitors just walk with the elephants, feed them and bathe them in the river — all on the elephant’s terms and with minimal tourists to keep a calm atmosphere. These elephants had worked in the logging and entertainment industries and it was emotional to see them as free as they possibly could be after decades of captivity.

5: The many wonderful hikes

Due to the time of year that I was in Sri Lanka, some of the bigger hikes such as Adam’s Peak weren’t possible to do. However, the ones I did hike were spectacular, with of course, even more views to behold. Waking up at 3am for a sunrise hike over Ella Rock was my favourite. With not a wisp of cloud in the sky, we had the perfect sunrise bathing us in its glow.

Another sunrise hike I woke up at an obscene hour for was Pidurangala Rock in Sigiriya, with its classic view of the ancient rock fortress, Lion Rock. After two sunrise hikes, I opted to go at sunset for Little Adam’s Peak in Ella, a fairly easy 1-hour hike on a marked and paved trail with rewarding views.

The view of Lion Rock from Pidurangala Rock

4: Learning to surf

I have been to many places where surfer dudes and instructors alike have tried to get me to try the popular water sport. The coast of Peru springs to mind the most. I was always adamant it wasn’t for me, and I was honestly uninterested in it. Fast-forward to 2021 when I was given a free lesson in Newquay, Cornwall. However, this lesson never happened as the sea was too calm and there were minimal waves, and so I believed that surfing was not my destiny. Then, I got to Arugam Bay.

Before arriving at this popular surf spot, I was told many times that there was simply nothing to do here if you don’t surf. I wasn’t planning to try but I wanted to check out this part of the country anyway, even if only for its beautiful beaches. Then I changed my mind, and I’m so glad I did because it was so much fun.

I stood up and rode some waves which probably gave me false confidence as Sri Lanka is apparently one of the easiest places in the world to surf, but nevertheless, I am planning on having more lessons in other surf spots. Besides the actual surfing, I had a great time as Kutty, my instructor, was excellent and patient, and I also met some of the coolest and friendliest people on my whole trip during my sunrise surfing lessons.

3: The trains

If you haven’t seen the photos of me hanging out the train doors in Sri Lanka, then you must not follow me on Instagram… One of the main things that the British colonisation of Sri Lanka, then known as Ceylon, brought to the country, was an expansive network of trains. It’s a real cultural experience, as well as being a cheap and convenient way to get around, and the scenic route from Kandy to Ella via Nuwara Eliya is one of the top things to do in the country.

Known as one of the most beautiful railway journeys in the world, this 7-hour rides journeys through tea plantations, jungle, mountains and everything in between. If you purchase a third-class reserved ticket like I did, you can also get your adrenaline pumping by hanging out the open doors and windows: the perfect way to entertain the thrill-seeker in you and terrify those back at home.

2: Scootering to Diyaluma Falls

I was seated next to a lovely Belgian girl on the second leg of the train from Nuwara Eliya to Ella, and the next day we decided to rent a scooter and visit Diyaluma Falls. As a seasoned pillion passenger, I happily sat on the back as we whizzed down the winding roads for over an hour to the start of the hike to the second highest waterfall in Sri Lanka. After an extremely minor ‘crash’ and paying a tall teen to set us off on the right path to the waterfall, we waded through even taller grass and slowly ascended in the blistering heat to the top.

Diyaluma is unlike any waterfall I have seen before. With natural, 3-tiered infinity pools, the quite difficult journey to get there was completely worth it as we dipped in the waters and cooled off, enjoying coconut water and saying hello to familiar faces from the train and hostel.

1: The people

With a recent economic crisis, terrorist attacks in 2019 and a civil war that lasted over 25 years, Sri Lankan people have gone through a lot. Yet, having been privileged enough to have travelled to many countries, I found them to be some of the most genuinely friendly and helpful people I’ve ever met. With gleaming smiles, warm curiosity and the inclination to help without anything in return, I felt safe, calm and happy throughout my time in Sri Lanka. As a solo woman traveller, you always need to have your wits about you. But I could walk along the street at night by myself almost everywhere I went without feeling like I probably shouldn’t.

I cannot recommend Sri Lanka enough to those looking to be immersed in another culture, and going there solo is easy, fun, stress-free (for the most part) and in my opinion, the best way to see the country.

Words and photos by me